Its 18th- and 19th-century squares and streets are pleasant to wander, and home to gems such as Locanda dei Buoni e Cattivi Inn of the Saints and Sinners , which does Sardinian slow food specialities such as clams with spicy confit tomatoes, and an exquisite artichoke with soft egg yolk in filo pastry. For a cheaper dinner, Pizzeria Il Fantasma up the pedestrianised street does great pizzas and antipasti at outdoor tables.
But this lively university town —the gateway to the islands of Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos— has a lot going for it. There are ancient amphorae left in situ by archaeologists, an Ottoman gunpowder depot, a Byzantine castle, and the loveliest train station in all of Greece —a yellow building with carved green woodwork built in Apartment blocks have become a canvas for Greek and international graffiti artists. Flat and compact, Volos is easy to explore by bicycle. Join the locals freewheeling along the seaside esplanade to the city beaches that begin at Anavros. Or push on to the lush Pelion peninsula, which crooks its finger into the glassy sweep of the Pagasitikos Gulf.
Those nearest to town — Gatzea, Kala Nera, Boufa, Lefokastro — can get crowded, especially at weekends. Young guns and high rollers head to the beach bars poking out of the pine trees at Afissos. Mountainous Pelion has its wild side, too. Where to stay Most hotels in Volos seem to be stuck in the s. The best rooms have balconies overlooking the port. Pick up red pepper pie, olive biscuits and tsoureki Greek brioche from Palios Fournos bakery 56 Krokiou Street, Palea for a picnic on the beach.
Around 2pm, Volos comes to a standstill as locals hit their favourite tsipouradiko.
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There are literally hundreds of these ouzo-and-meze bars in Volos, mostly no-frills, neon-lit joints where Anthony Bourdain would have felt at home. Each karafaki little bottle of tsipouro , a grape distillate that comes with or without aniseed, is served with a titbit or two. Getting there Volos railway station is close to the harbour and served by local trains from Larissa 38 miles away , which is on the main Athens-Thessaloniki line. From Thessaloniki there are trains to Belgrade, Sofia and beyond the Belgrade route is only open this year until 16 September, see seat EasyJet flies to Volos Nea Anchialos airport, 40km away twice a week.
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Most of these were destroyed in the second world war, but there are still jewels from the era such as the built Wellington Racecourse , which holds regular race meetings, and the railway station, where most visitors arrive. Other historic attractions include the spectacular neo-Gothic St-Petrus-en-Pauluskerk church, with its ornate twin towers. Its design was inspired by Cologne cathedral, but despite appearances it was actually built just over years ago. Out of town to the south-west, the open-air Atlantic Wall Museum is a major attraction, if a sombre one, with its 60 German second world war bunkers.
Happily, it is next to the recently renovated Raversyde scenic area. Want to bookmark your favourite articles and stories to read or reference later?
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